Last Fish Of 2008

This was the last fish we caught this year on Vieques, a twenty pound tarpon that ate a fly in Laguna Kiani. It looks like 2009 is going to start off nicely down here. Our stiff Christmas Winds have finally died down and the morning waters are flat calm. Perfect conditions for tailing bonefish, which is what I'll be chasing for the next several days. Happy New Year.

Christmas In Key West, 2008

Key West is still on of the best places in the world to chase big permit with fly rods. Pictured here is my buddy Capt. Mike Bartlett with a beautiful twenty pound permit he caught on Christmas morning. Santa definitely didn't put this fish in his stocking, he had to go after it himself with his wife Sandy on the poling platform. Capt. Mike is one of the better permit guides working out of Key West so if you're heading that way give him a call at (305)797-2452 or check out his website at www.keywestflats.net.

Christmas On Vieques, 2008

Even though the winds are howling again, just like they do every Christmas, we're actually managing to catch some fish here on Vieques. This is angler Chris Martin with a beautiful snook he landed near Laguna Kiani. The muddy water up there is full of bait right now and a sizable school of tarpon having a field day with them at the same time. We've had several in the air but none on the boat lately. Plenty of bent hooks and busted lines, though.

Quit Your Job And Move To Vieques: Part 2, Reason #2762

It’s getting colder down here on Vieques, too. The water temperature at Encampment Beach today was 79 degrees. This is still in the comfort zone for bonefish and they’re cruising right up in the surf all day long. The fish pictured above is one of three I caught yesterday morning, a nice four pounder which is the average size for this spot on Vieques.

This bones off this beach are best fished with fly rods, especially when the winds are calm, which honestly isn’t very often. My weapon of choice is a is an 8 weight with floating line. I don’t recommend using a freshwater reel here because it may not hold enough backing. Also the sand gets in everything when you wade fish and that can cause havoc with simple click drags. You’ll also want a 9 foot tapered leader with at least a 12 pound tippet. Don’t go any lighter or you’ll get cut off every time. Shrimp flies tied on #6 hooks work almost every time.

The bonefish flat at the end of Encampment Beach is easy to find. You can park under the power lines in Villa Borinquen, about half a mile past the Humane Society, and walk ten minutes down to where the beach ends. If you want to look at this spot on Google Earth then plug in these numbers: Lat: 18° 9'37.79"N, Long: 65°24'57.43"W. And you’re welcome. There aren’t very many fishing guides anywhere who’ll give out the exact geographical coordinates of their favorite bonefish spot. Merry Christmas.

Stuff I Like: Tibor Reels

Tibor Reels are the best made pieces of fly fishing tackle on earth. I got my first one over twelve years ago as a tip from a customer who owned a fly shop in New England. It was the same black Everglades model pictured above which I spooled up with a 9-weight line, 200 yards of 20# backing, and mounted it to a Sage RPLXi 990. I still have this rig and it’s been my most effective and favorite saltwater combo over the past dozen years. I‘ve used it catch everything from bonefish to blackfin tuna.

Tibor Reels are hand machined out of solid bar-stock aluminum and their shop is located in Delray Beach, FL. These reels come in several different models for rod sizes from 3 to 15 weight. You can chase everything from chalk stream trout to gulf stream marlin with a Tibor.

The most impressive thing about these reels is that they’re totally bulletproof. I’ve never once taken my Everglades apart to clean it, and in fact, I rarely even rinse it off with freshwater after a full day of fishing. A few months ago I landed a nice snook while wading off a west Florida beach and set the rod down right in the surf while I was unhooking the fish. When I picked it back up the reel was full of sand and would barely turn. I simply swished it around in the water and kept moving the handle until the bigger pieces of sand jamming the spool where crunched down enough to free it. It sounded just like a pepper grinder for a few moments and then went right back to clicking away like it was brand new. Even after that I was too lazy to rinse it with freshwater when I got home. I did drop it in the sink with some dishes a few days later just to get rid of the salt crust.

The company doesn’t recommend treating their products like this but it’s nice to know that you can. This kind of quality isn’t cheap. A new Tibor Everglades will cost you $640 at Bass Pro but this is definitely a case getting more than your money’s worth out of a piece of tackle. These reels will honestly last a lifetime and then some. There is very little room for improvement with them so I can’t imagine ever feeling that my Tibors will become obsolete. I currently own three different models and none of them has ever given me a singe problem. They’re some of the best money I’ve ever spent and if you‘re really serious about saltwater fly fishing, you need to own at least one of these reels.

Whale Shark Off Key West

My buddy Capt. Mike Bartlett sent me this photo of a mid size whale shark he spotted while fishing off Key West. They're rare in those waters but not totally uncommon. Since whale sharks are the ocean's largest fish they have no real predators and are unafraid of humans. They best part about spotting one off the Keys is that they're ususally followed by a school of delicious cobia, which can be caught with ease. Whale sharks are totally protected and even if you had a cargo winch for tackle they only eat plankton. It's really hard to bait a hook with a plankton.

Key West, 2008

I drove down to Key West last month for a quick visit before I fly back to Vieques for the season. I try to get down there once a year to fish my old stomping grounds, check out what’s new, and remind myself why I don’t live there anymore.

Key West is one of the most unique places in the United States. They call it the American Caribbean even though it’s really located in the North Atlantic. No matter what, it’s still as close as you can get to the real thing without jumping on a boat or plane. The Chamber of Commerce has done an excellent job over the years of selling this island to the party crowd and the once sleepy little fishing village is now a 24/7version of Mardi Gras.

Key West can also be one of the most expensive places you’ll ever visit. It’s nearly impossible to find a decent place to stay for under $100, any time of year. This is one of the reasons that Key West’s tourism is on a serious decline recently.

Five years ago, when real estate prices went through the roof, a lot of hotel owners converted their properties into condos in the hopes of selling these units for huge profits. Unfortunately, the real estate bubble popped loudly and the town found itself with fewer rooms for the tourists that wanted them. Since demand exceeded supply, the places that still had rooms available jacked up their prices beyond what the average Joe could pay. High dollar resorts became the norm for the island even though Key West is far from a destination like Anguilla or St. Barts.

It is still a gorgeous island that needs to be reminded of its deeply seated place in American history; something it should be aggressively promoting. The 18th and 19th century guest houses in Old Town are among the most beautiful in the country. The owners of these places have done a great job preserving them but you’ll pay for the privilege of staying there. Spending at least $200 per night is not uncommon.

The restaurants on Key West are also pricey as hell but some of the best anywhere. If you’re into great food and don’t mind paying for it, a week dining in the Keys won’t be enough. New places are always popping up and most are real prize winners. At the very least, you won’t have any problem finding a perfectly served fillet of grouper or mahi anywhere on Upper Duval Street.

Lower Duval is another story altogether. If you have kids or strong religious convictions, stay as far away from this area, and especially the 200 Block, as possible. When I first moved to Key West I was in my early 20’s, and Duval Street was Heaven on Earth. Back then I had an indestructible liver and no sense of embarrassment. Times have really changed. Now I look at Lower Duval as a perverted zoo where you can’t even get a cheap drink anymore. Even the strippers look ugly to me these days. If you want to pay $4 for a lukewarm beer and hear someone mangle “Brown Eyed Girl,“ you’ll feel right at home.

Despite all of that I still have a big soft spot for Key West. Spending the last few years away from it has made me appreciate and miss the island a little more than I realized. The fishing opportunities in the Keys are still some of the best in the world and booking a great guide like my buddy Capt. Mike Bartlett is the best money you’ll ever spend. A day of bonefishing with him will probably add five years to your life. And hitting the bars on Lower Duval Street for a night isn‘t really all that bad. I look at it like eating a couple of greasy cheeseburgers grilled up on the beach. Not fatal in moderation and better for you than the doctors will ever admit.

I said goodbye to Key West several years ago and don’t regret it for a minute. Vieques had the two things I was most looking for in a new place to live; affordable real estate and miles of uncrowded bonefish flats. Things are much slower these days but the phone is still ringing and the tourists still need to go fishing.

Comparing Vieques and Key West is actually a tough thing to do. They’re at the top of the list of my favorite places on Earth, but they got there in very different ways and for very different reasons. If I had the means (and I definitely don’t,) I’d own homes on both islands. Until that day, I’ll be happy enough as a resident of Vieques and a tourist on Key West.

Quit Your Job And Move To Vieques

Starting in May of 2009, our fully furnished house on Vieques will be available as a long term rental. The house is located in the Isabel Segunda neighborhood of Mambiche on a very safe and quiet street. This is a very popular part of the island and we’re blessed by many wonderful English speaking neighbors. You’ll be within a ten minute walk to the bank, grocery store, and ferry dock down in the main town.

The house itself is currently set up as a two bedroom, two bath, but the back living room can be turned into a third bedroom or even its own private unit. This back room has a small kitchen and separate entrance. The house was completely remodeled in 2005 with new Kenmore appliances and air conditioners in all the bedrooms. Two satellite TVs and wireless internet are also available. A smaller room connected to the master bedroom makes a great home office.

There are two separate gated driveways and the property is completely fenced. The yard has several native fruit trees such as banana, mango, guava, and cashew and some are productive year round. We also have a huge picnic table and gas grill for outdoor meals. You’ll also have use of my 17 foot canoe for fishing and exploring the Bio-bays.

We’re offering this as a one year lease at $1000 per month plus utilities. We’ll also consider a shorter rental depending on the circumstances. Pets are more than welcome with a small, refundable deposit. If you have any other questions feel free to contact me directly by e-mail at gmckee1@hotmail.com.

Stuff I Like: The Fish Philly

This is the world’s greatest sandwich. I had one last weekend at Fishbusterz, the small outdoor restaurant located right on the shrimp docks on Stock Island. This place is a little hard to find at first but it’s only a minute north of Key West. Ask directions and look for the signs and you’ll get there eventually.

Calling the sandwich the Fish Philly is a little misleading since it’s actually made with shrimp and lobster, both locally caught and unloaded off the boats right in front of your picnic tables. The lightly grilled crustaceans are covered in a spicy mayo and several slices of melted provolone. That alone would make any sandwich great but what puts this thing over the top is the bread. Fishbusterz actually buys the authentic Philly cheese steak bread from the D’Ambrosia bakery in Philadelphia. Anything else is just a hoagie roll. Our bread tasted like it was baked that morning.

As you can see from the picture, the Philly Fish also comes with a side of lobster potato salad and steak fries. The platter costs around $12. Is it good for you? Hell no. The whole thing is easily about a million calories, but you’ll burn that much after a day of fishing in the hot sun, so quit worrying about it. If you don‘t have a fishing trip scheduled then three weeks of sit-ups should cover it.

If you’re anywhere near the Florida Keys, go to Fishbusterz and order this sandwich as soon as possible. If this isn’t the best thing you’ve ever eaten, there is something seriously wrong with you.

Bonnet Head Sharks, Key West

Catching sharks on a fly is great sport, but it can be a labor intensive effort involving a lot of chum, big bulky flies, and heavy fly rods. Fortunately, there’s one species that’s very user-friendly and can be caught year round throughout South Florida.

The bonnet head shark is the smallest of the hammerhead family and rarely grows over three feet in length. They’re crustacean eaters and you’ll find them on any shallow flat in the South Florida. The bonnet head is so common and easy to catch that guides often call them the “Poor-man’s Bonefish.”

Toss a live crab or shrimp across the nose of a bonnet head shark and you’ll get an immediate take. Like most sharks, their sense of smell is unreal but their eyesight is rather poor. Getting them to take something that doesn't produce a scent, such as an artificial lure or a fly, is a lot more difficult, unless you’re using the right color.

Years ago I picked up a package of rabbit fur strips dyed in a color called Crawfish Orange. It was a little too unnatural looking for tying bonefish patterns but I thought the tarpon would love it. They didn’t, but one morning I asked an angler cast one of these Crawfish streamers at a cruising bonnet head just for target practice and the shark went nuts attacking the fly. I’d never seen one react that way to anything other than live bait.

Since bonnet heads have small mouths and like to pin their prey to the bottom, I tied up a weighted Crawfish Orange shrimp pattern on #4 hooks and instantly started catching these sharks left and right. I also found out that bonefish love the color just as much, and now this color fly is almost all I use in both the Keys and Puerto Rico.

A standard 7 or 8 weight bonefish outfit is perfect for bonnet head sharks and fifteen pound fluorocarbon is all the tippet you’ll need. Their teeth are sharp but their small mouth usually doesn’t reach the eye of the hook. Just be sure to use a pair of pliers or forceps when unhooking them.

Bonnet heads are not a glamour species, but their “poor-man’s bonefish” nickname is well deserved. You can sight cast to them all year in the Florida Keys, even when it’s too hot or cold for everything else. They don’t spook easily and will tolerate a lot of bad casts. This makes them an excellent species for beginning anglers. Ten pound bonnet heads are not uncommon and they can burn off a lot of fly line in a few seconds once hooked.

You can find these sharks on the shallows everywhere in the Keys, even in places where the crowds and jet skis chased away the bonefish years ago. This is one species that you’ll have a realistic chance of hooking in South Florida without using a guide. Pick a good looking flat on the downwind side of US-1 and look for the light grey dorsal fin cutting through the surface. Drop a Crawfish Orange fly on their nose and you’ll be off to the races.